My feet dangled over the edge of the Zodiak into the icy Antarctic water. Only Luis, our driver was left because all of the other snorkelers were in and had started. As a weak swimmer with a fear of deep water, I was having a difficult time even though I wore a life jacket over my already buoyant wet suit. We were in the Galapagos about to snorkel off of Chinese Hat island. The goal of the group was to find white tipped reef sharks. My husband called to me encouragingly so I hesitated, then jumped into the water, so frigid, I yelped like a sea lion. I held his hand to get started, and it took quite a while to get over the cold, but once I started moving, seeing huge angel, parrot and brilliant coloured, yet unidentifiable fish, it was easy to forget how nervous I actually was. “Shark!”, our guide, Ivan yelled “everyone over here”, he raised his hand to show where we were to go. You would think I would be swimming in the opposite direction, but we were in a search for the sharks, and this one was in a deep cavernous hole. Check- one white tipped reef shark. I snorkeled for a while holding hands with my husband. Romantic – possibly, but I was holding his hand for fear based reasons. He sprang away from me to take an underwater photo, pointing to a shark right beside me. It was huge, maybe five feet long. Nothing to be afraid of actually as it swam gracefully past me like all the other fish. Finding the life jacket was making me float almost above the water, I whipped it off and threw it back in the boat. We were then summoned to a tiny cave and had to duck low and wait for the current to be at a suitable level, so we could swim in quickly. Several in the group opted out, as it was quite ominous looking. Once in, we could stand up and see the open sky. Scores of brilliantly Picasso colored fish swam past me every other second, making me forget how cold the water was. Galapagos is a place to dive or snorkel before you die. It was not wasted on this amateur snorkeler!